Pussy Bow Blouse Sewalong No. 4: Starting Work on the Bodice

Hello lovely sewalongers!

Today is the day we get to start sewing! Hands up who’s excited!

Banner - bodice start

We’re going to start work on the bodice today. It’s just a quick one to ease you in gently. These steps will need to be done for both Variation 1 and 2, so whichever version you’re making, these instructions are for you.

Have we got anyone in the room who’s new to working with lightweight, drapey, uncooperative fabric? You might like to check out these super handy tips before you start.

Okay, all ready to go and feeling good. Let’s get sewing!

The first thing we’re going to do is make a little notch at the centre back of the blouse, right on the fold. It will be easiest to do this with your pattern paper still attached to the fabric.

Snip

Being very careful not to snip too far into the fabric, cut a small notch at the centre back fold of the back piece of the blouse. You only want to cut about 5mm in so that you stay within the seam allowance. We like to use these teeny tiny scissors for precision jobs like this.

Scissors of the tiny variety

Once you have done that, remove the pattern paper from the front and back blouse pieces.

09

Place the front and back pieces right sides together and pin at the shoulder seams and side seams.

10

Sew these seams with a 1.5cm seam allowance.

12

Then finish these edges using a zigzag stitch or by overlocking.

Alternatively, if you’re working with really lightweight fabric you might prefer to do French seams here. French seams are great because they hide all the raw edges of the garment, which makes for super neat innards.

French seams can be quite the mind bender because you first sew the garment together with wrong sides facing. Don’t panic! It’ll all work out in the end.

First, sew the seams with wrong sides together using a tiny 5mm seam allowance.

FS2

Trim this down as much as you can, getting rid of any straggly fraying threads. Now turn the blouse the other way out so that you now have right sides together. Repin the seam and sew it again, this time using a 1cm seam allowance.

It’s as simple as that!

FS1

If you need us to go through that again, you can watch this video we made which goes through the whole process.

Once you have sewn the shoulder and side seams using either method, press them towards the back.

13

And then we’ve just got one last thing to do. We need to finish the centre front edges of the blouse, using a zigzag stitch or on the overlocker.

Bodice front edge

And voila! That’s it, we’re done for the day. Version 1ers, we’ll see you back on Monday. Version 2ers, you’ve got until Wednesday to get this step done.

As ever, if you’re stuck we’re here to help. Comment below or find us on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

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