Ultimate Trousers Sewalong No. 4: Sewing the Seams

Hi sewalongers,

Banner Seams

Today we’ve got a quick one for you. We’re sewing up the side seams and crotch seam of our trousers. By the end of today we’ll have something that actually looks like a pair of trousers – so let’s get to it!

You can find the rest of the schedule here:

Monday 7th July: Measuring and Cutting
Tuesday 8th July: Stitching the darts
Thursday 10th July: Getting the right fit
Friday 11th July: Inserting the invisble zip
Saturday 12th July: Attaching the facing
Sunday 13th July: Hemming the trousers

Let’s do the inside leg first.

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One leg at a time, place the front and back leg pieces right sides together. Match up the notches down the inside leg, and pin from the crotch point down to the hem of the trousers.

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Backstitching at the beginning and end, sew these two pieces together.

Now let’s tackle the outer leg seam.

In the instruction booklet we say to sew all the way down the leg on the right leg, and from the notch down to the hem on the left leg – in order to accommodate the zip on this side. However, for the sewalong we’re only going to stitch from the notch on both sides, leaving the tops open. This is so that tomorrow, when we have a go at fitting the trousers, it will make it easier to get an even fit on both sides.

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Once you have sewn both legs, press these seams open.

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When the seams are all nicely pressed, we’re going to join these two separate leg pieces together to create something that will look like a real pair of trousers.

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The way that we do this is to place on leg inside the other leg, and sew around the crotch curve from front to back.

Let’s break this down.

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You’ll need to have one leg the right way out and the other leg inside out.

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Place the inside out leg into the right sides out one, so that right sides are together.

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Line up the crotch seam, making sure you’ve matched the edges, notches and the inside leg seams. Pin the two legs together.

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Stitch these pieces together, backstitching at the beginning and end. Be careful to keep to the 1.5cm seam allowance all the way around.

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Once this is done, press the seam allowance open all the way around.

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It’s quite a tricky area to press, so you might find a tailor’s ham or sausage will help.

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And that’s us done for today!

We’ll be back tomorrow when we’ll be guiding you through some common fitting techniques. See you then folks!

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